Water Pump Terms: A Plain-Language Glossary for Homeowners

When you talk to a pump installer, you may hear words like HP, pressure controller, check valve or commissioning. These are everyday terms for plumbers but can confuse a homeowner. This short glossary explains each one in plain language, grouped by the part of the home water system it belongs to. Keep the page handy and come back to it when reading a quote or describing a pump problem.

The pump

Terms in this group describe the pump itself and its job.

HP (horsepower)

HP measures the power of the pump motor. One HP is roughly 746 watts. Home pumps are usually offered in sizes such as 0.50HP, 0.75HP and 1.00HP. A higher HP is not automatically better. The right size depends on the number of bathrooms, the height of the house and how many water points run at once.

Booster pump

A pump that raises water pressure from the tank to the taps inside the house. It is used when gravity water from the roof tank is too weak, especially for upstairs bathrooms.

Transfer pump

A pump that moves water from one tank to another, for example from a ground-level tank up to the roof tank. Its job is to fill a tank, not to raise pressure at the taps.

The controls

Controls decide when the pump turns on and when it stops.

Pressure controller

A small unit usually fitted on top of or beside the pump. It senses when a tap opens and switches the pump on, then switches it off when the flow stops. Some controllers also have indicator lights and a reset button.

Pressure switch

A mechanical switch that turns the pump on when pressure falls to one level and off when pressure rises to another. It is commonly used with a small pressure tank.

The simple difference

Both control the pump automatically. A pressure controller responds to flow and pressure, while a pressure switch relies only on two set pressure levels. Either one should be adjusted by the installer only.

The plumbing and tanks

These parts keep water moving in the right direction.

Check valve

A valve that lets water flow one way only. It stops water from running back into the pump or tank when the pump stops.

Foot valve

A one-way valve with a strainer, fitted at the bottom end of the suction pipe, usually inside a lower tank. It keeps the suction pipe full of water so the pump does not lose its water each time it stops.

Roof tank

The tank at the top of the house that stores water. Water flows down from it by gravity. The tank's condition, including its lid and cleanliness, affects any pump connected to it.

The installation

These terms often come up on installation day or in a quote.

Priming

Filling the pump body and suction pipe with water before the pump is switched on. A pump needs water inside it to begin pumping properly.

Dry running

When a pump runs with no water, for example when the tank is empty. Dry running can overheat and damage the inside of the pump. If the tank is empty, switch the pump off and wait for the tank to refill.

Commissioning

The final step after installation: the pump is switched on, pressure is tested, leaks are checked and the automatic function is confirmed. Our supply and installation prices include pressure and function testing, and the RM800 installation-only package includes testing and commissioning.

Basic wiring

The standard electrical connection from a nearby power point to the pump. Extra wiring, pipe modification and old pump removal are charged separately and confirmed on WhatsApp first. Electrical work is for the installer only. Switch off if there is a problem and never open a junction box yourself.

Use these words when you contact us

With the right terms, your description becomes much clearer. For example, "a 0.75HP booster pump that keeps cycling on and off" helps far more than "the pump is broken". Prices by brand and HP are in the price section. You can also visit the Kuala Terengganu, Miri or Kuching pages, and the schedule for your town is confirmed on WhatsApp. Another term still unclear? Message us with a photo of your pump.